Cartier and India

Cartier has had a symbiotic relationship with India since Jacques Cartier visited the country in 1911, when the coronation of George V was being celebrated at the Delhi Durbar.

Image from the Cartier Archives

He met Maharajas all over the country, who were drawn to the Parisian styles Cartier showed them and thus brought about the inception of two new styles of jewelry. The first, Indian jewels redesigned in the Cartier style for maharajas, and the second, Indian inspired jewels sold in the West. 

A prominent piece Cartier designed for the royal family of Patiala is the Patiala ruby choker - a stunning multi-strand ruby, pearl and diamond necklace reminiscent of the Art Deco style popular at the time.  

Another example is this striking Cartier grey pearl and diamond bracelet commissioned by Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda - eventually sold off to pay the Maharani's debts. 

On the other hand in the West, Indian turban ornaments like the sarpech and turrah became the inspiration for shoulder tassel brooches, while enamelled jewelry and carved gemstones also increased in popularity.

My favorite piece perhaps is the Nawanagar Cartier diamond necklace created for the Maharaja of what is now Jamnagar, in 1931. The 500 carat necklace featuring white, pink, and green diamonds is decadent, yet playful with it's use of color - and was actually recreated by Cartier for the movie Ocean 8 as the film's central pursuit. 

India's influence on Cartier lives on in other ways as well, such as in Cartier's iconic "Tutti Frutti" style of jewelry featuring rubies, emeralds and sapphires - which was said to have been influenced by the Maharaja of Patiala.